2020 spring summer couture collection and trends
The 2020 spring summer couture collections shows which came to an end over the past few weeks were certainly worth viewing. Designers showed the fruits of their labors in cuts that at times drew inspiration from vintage fashion and were often worthy of standing ovations for their stunning looks.
We are in the midst of the months during which fashion is at its busiest, though fashion magazines may be at their slimmest. After all, it is only a little while until the start of the fashion weeks during which the 2020 spring summer collections will be introduced. In the meantime, however, one wants to think about the details left in one’s mind from the 2020 spring summer trends shows that recently ended. Featuring lots of delicate handiwork, the giants of the couture fashion world really impressed this year. While there were certainly repeats from past years, younger new designers showed off some memorable pieces.
The Zuhair Murad 2020 couture collection was a festival of appliqued flowers; apparently, the designer used exactly 25,000 appliqued flowers for his new collection. A masterful blending of white, powdery pink and gold was brought together with other colors and intertwined with the flowers for a look that was reminiscent of a bouquet. What was really striking in these flowery bouquets was not the pinks, reds and oranges but rather the soft lilacs, yellows, and pinkish oranges. There can be little doubt that the most noticeable detail of the collection was the waist-fitting gold belts in leaf shape. In fact, Murad used this feature in nearly all his designs in this collection. Pencil skirts, pant-jacket suits and double-breasted dresses were all decorated with that indispensable couture-style lace and lacy fringes. The grand finale design of the collection was an extremely puffy bridal gown decorated with applique flowers.
I have to admit, the Valentino collection really surprised me. Though Valentino designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli tend to lead towards plain colors and flowers in their normal seasonal collections, this time they strayed from their usual look. This new collection, inspired by the fantastical Roma opera and various works by French post-impressionist painter Henri Rousseau, featured animal figures such as snakes, elephants, lions and tigers. Perhaps less surprising was that those flowery lace designs we are so used to seeing from Valentino were once again very successful.
Generously cut dresses that fall all the way to ankles, designs reminiscent of kimonos and jackets and skirts decorated with fringes; it was all worth seeing! I should note though that my heart still lies with Valentino classics and that I believe the 2018 spring summer couture collection was actually better than this one.
While it was clear that a lot of work had gone into the Elie Saab collection — with delicate stitching, crystal beads embroidered with care into the pieces and all the flowery applique — I felt like I was in many ways seeing a collection I had viewed before. So many years have passed, so many famous people now wear his clothing, but it seems that Elie Saab has barely changed. We still see lots of filmy tulle, lots of puffy dresses and lots of beads in this collection. The color white is still featured in his collections, with great overtures to other colors like light blue, yellow, red and lilac. I suppose no matter how much criticism Saab might get for repeating himself, his shows are still like fairy tales.
Unlike Elie Saab, Ulyana Sergeenko uses neither delicate crystal beads nor floaty tulle in her collection. In fact, she gives you no particular reason to think you are attending a couture show and not a regular spring/summer collection. Though Sergeenko is not a designer who strays from her particular profile, she seems to develop her own fashion senses more and more each season. Tulip-shaped peplums, dresses made in silky-cotton blends and balloon skirts; it all makes you feel like you are in some sort of wonderland. This designer, who is attracting lots of attention for her own style as well as her collections, showed off reds, petrol greens, dark blues, bordeaux, purples, of course, her indispensable blacks in this collection.